Posts Tagged ‘Blouse E1000’
Posted by: Lyon
Pattern Review Checklist:
- Ladies Blouse – #1000 This beautiful ladies blouse features a pleated front with cutwork scallops and padded granitos at collar, cuffs and basque.
- Sized for a 36″ bust
- Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it? Yes
- Were the instructions easy to follow? What instructions there were, were easy to follow except for the cuff. It says to sew the unnumbered edge to the sleeve, but both sides had numbers.
- What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I find high necklines very confining. I also didn’t like the deep pleat in the sleeve when the bodice had several small pink tucks.
- Fabric Used – light weight woven cotton in a rose/vine print on a light blue ground
- Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: The only piece I didn’t change was the cuff. Most changes were to accommodate my much larger bust size.
- Would you recommend this pattern to others? Yes.
- Conclusion This pattern was easy to follow and adjust for fit, except for the sleeve. The underarm seam falls in the front of the garment instead of matching up with the side seam on the bodice as in modern day garments. I like the way this alternate placement works in the fall of the sleeve.
- Ladies Blouse – #1000
- Sewer’s Skill Level: Advance
- Pattern Rating: 4-Better than Average, why? A very flattering fit for most body types, even a short-round like me.
- What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern and why? Intermediate level for pattern as is, advanced for someone to change the neckline as much as I did.
- Were the instructions easy to follow? If not, what needs to be changed? See above on cuff.
- How was the fit/sizing? Did it correspond to what you thought? The fit was close to my thoughts, the sizing, even for a 36″ bust would be much tighter than modern day garments. Both the neck line and arm hole areas are much higher and smaller than what we are used to.
- Did you make any pattern alterations? If so, what alterations did you make? Where they fit or design alterations?
Fit Alterations: Added width to bodice and sleeves. Lengthened basque to achieve larger waist measurement. Dropped and opened arm hole for ease in wearing.
Design Alterations: Deleted back button closure, added buttons and placket to front as new closure. Converted deep pleat in sleeve to 2 pin tucks to match bodice back detail. Dropped and opened neckline by 4 inches for an open Peter Pan type look. Seamed closed back of basque and collar. Added gathering to bottom of sleeve for fuller sleeve. Used interfacing on cuffs to help them stand up. I added buttons to the waistband at the back pin tucks as decoration.
- Other notes: I used interfacing on the added placket as well, made self covered buttons and used the standard machine setting for a scalloped edging on collar, cuff and basque instead of attempting hand embroidery. To make the new collar, I hand draped the pattern piece on a dress maker’s dummy since the original pattern piece was no longer useful. If I make this pattern again, I will add more ease in the upper front bodice since as it is, the pin tucks pull out across the chest front when wearing the blouse. I think I may also go for a full curve on the collar at the neckline instead of having the squared-off finish on this garment.
Posted by: Lyon
I cut out my basic muslin patterns on Sunday and began basting them together. The back and front on the side seams were the only place I didn’t have to make adjustments. The lower edge of the front fell about two inches lower than the back, so that had to be trimmed. The neckline was off in more ways than one, so I took my trusty marker and just drew where I wanted the neckline to fall on front and back while the blouse was on me. The back shoulder seam needed to be adjusted to match the slope of my back. It was okay at the arm but way too wide at the neck.
The sleeve went in very easily, the seam I thought was on the back turns out to be a front seam. It is the first time in my years of sewing I have seen a sleeve seam in this configuration. Very interesting. I still have to make adjustments to the sleeve pleat. It no longer falls at the shoulder seam since I enlarged the sleeve so much. I also don’t care for the rather large single pleat when the rest of the blouse has smaller pin tucks. So when I move it froward, I will make its sizing match the rest of the pin tucks.
The collar pattern piece was pretty much useless as provided due to all the added width and lowering of the neckline I made to the original pattern pieces for the front and back, so I just draped a new collar on the dress form to match the changed silhouette. The back neckline still stands out a slight bit from my back when I have the muslin on, but I can adjust for that by pulling in the seams at the shoulders slightly when finishing in the cotton print.
I didn’t fit the cuff or the placket and belt on the muslin since those pieces are basically long rectangles and don’t really affect the fit of the rest of the blouse. (The yellow in the photos is my basting threads, the blue is my marking lines.)
Now I have to figure out how to do the scalloped edge embroidery on the new collar since the pattern no longer applies. Wish me luck figuring this one out as I am a complete novice with vintage embellishments!
The photos show the muslin shell on my dress dummy. The dummy was sized to me some 30 odd years ago, so disregard the “extra” bagginess on the front, I fill it quite well even if the dress form doesn’t. LOL
Posted by: Lyon
I’m working on my first pattern from Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1912 Titanic Sewing Project.
Accordingly, the first challenge was to size up to fit my not even close to a 36″ bust form. This meant adding about 4 inches to the circumference of both the shirt shell and sleeve.
I also altered the original style slightly to accommodate a lower neckline, longer waist-to-back length and removed the back button closer and changed to a placket button closure in the front.
I moved the neck line down because close collars have always made me feel as if I’m choking. I am even bothered by the soft and stretchy collar of a T-shirt, so having a tailored high-neck collar is out of the question.
Another 1912VPLLTP participant alerted me to the fact that the waistlines on all the patterns she’s done have been rather high. I think this is partly the styling of the era, most images seem to have a Princess waistline which is very high, closer to the bust line than the current trend of fashions to drop below the waist closer to the hip. Since I am very petite to begin with, the measure was only an inch short of a comfortable waist line for me.
Since the pattern has decorative buttons on the front of the blouse, then more buttons on the back for closure, I decided to delete the back closure and add a slim placket with button holes to the front. The choice of commercial buttons is quite pathetic in my area, so I will be making self-covered buttons instead.
Here are my adjusted pattern pieces laid out on muslin for the first fitting.
I printed out the original pattern pieces on newsprint. It’s heavy enough to manipulate, but sturdy enough to take the abuse of being slashed and spread to adjust the sizing. I will need to make further adjustments to the collar, basque and armholes once I am working with the muslin pieces.
Another challenge I ran into was not being able to find cotton Swiss dot fabric. There were several embroidered white-on-white fabrics at the store, but all of them were either a poly/cotton blend or 100% poly. I ended up in the “quilting fabric” section so I could get a 100% cotton fabric. Again, the choices where not to my liking for the white-on-white fabrics. And several other fabrics, while attractive were too heavy in weight for the styling of the blouse. I settled on a light weight fabric in a pale blue ground with tiny red/pink roses with berries and vines as being closest to a historically appropriate look. (And also matching my current wardrobe pieces.)