Blouse E1000 progress for the vpll1912project
Posted by: Lyon
June 25th, 2012 >> Blouse E1000, http://vpll1912project.org/
I’m working on my first pattern from Vintage Pattern Lending Library 1912 Titanic Sewing Project.
I opted to start with the Blouse E1000.The pattern itself comes sized for a 36″ bust. I believe that the pattern is equivalent to a modern-day size 4 to 6. A size I haven’t been in several decades.
Accordingly, the first challenge was to size up to fit my not even close to a 36″ bust form. This meant adding about 4 inches to the circumference of both the shirt shell and sleeve.
I also altered the original style slightly to accommodate a lower neckline, longer waist-to-back length and removed the back button closer and changed to a placket button closure in the front.
I moved the neck line down because close collars have always made me feel as if I’m choking. I am even bothered by the soft and stretchy collar of a T-shirt, so having a tailored high-neck collar is out of the question.
Another 1912VPLLTP participant alerted me to the fact that the waistlines on all the patterns she’s done have been rather high. I think this is partly the styling of the era, most images seem to have a Princess waistline which is very high, closer to the bust line than the current trend of fashions to drop below the waist closer to the hip. Since I am very petite to begin with, the measure was only an inch short of a comfortable waist line for me.
Since the pattern has decorative buttons on the front of the blouse, then more buttons on the back for closure, I decided to delete the back closure and add a slim placket with button holes to the front. The choice of commercial buttons is quite pathetic in my area, so I will be making self-covered buttons instead.
Here are my adjusted pattern pieces laid out on muslin for the first fitting.
I printed out the original pattern pieces on newsprint. It’s heavy enough to manipulate, but sturdy enough to take the abuse of being slashed and spread to adjust the sizing. I will need to make further adjustments to the collar, basque and armholes once I am working with the muslin pieces.
Another challenge I ran into was not being able to find cotton Swiss dot fabric. There were several embroidered white-on-white fabrics at the store, but all of them were either a poly/cotton blend or 100% poly. I ended up in the “quilting fabric” section so I could get a 100% cotton fabric. Again, the choices where not to my liking for the white-on-white fabrics. And several other fabrics, while attractive were too heavy in weight for the styling of the blouse. I settled on a light weight fabric in a pale blue ground with tiny red/pink roses with berries and vines as being closest to a historically appropriate look. (And also matching my current wardrobe pieces.)




